How perfumers distill fragrance from roses

Perfumers extract fragrances from various types of roses using specialized techniques to capture their unique aromatic profiles. The primary methods include steam distillation, solvent extraction, and the traditional process of enfleurage.

1. Steam Distillation

This method involves passing steam through rose petals to vaporize the essential oils, which are then condensed and collected. It's commonly used for extracting oil from Rosa Damascena (Damask Rose) and Rosa Alba (White Rose). The resulting product, known as rose otto, is prized for its rich and complex scent.

2. Solvent Extraction

In this process, solvents like hexane are used to dissolve the aromatic compounds from rose petals. The solution is then filtered and the solvent evaporated, leaving behind a waxy substance called concrete. Further processing with alcohol removes the waxes, yielding a concentrated liquid known as rose absolute. This technique is often applied to Rosa Centifolia (May Rose), producing a fragrance with sweet and slightly powdery notes.

3. Enfleurage

Enfleurage is a traditional method where fresh rose petals are placed on glass plates coated with odorless animal fat. The petals are replaced repeatedly until the fat becomes saturated with the rose's fragrance. The scented fat, known as pomade, is then washed with alcohol to extract the aromatic compounds. Although labor-intensive and less common today, enfleurage captures the delicate scents of roses that might be altered by heat in other methods.

Each extraction technique offers distinct olfactory characteristics, allowing perfumers to select the method that best captures the desired essence of the rose variety they are working with.